7The Scotsman Saturday 2 February 2008H i gh l a n d s8216Out is the
fusty image
of Inverness
and in is an
optimisti c,
lively city,
perfect for a
b re a k 8217TIME TO REFLECT
Fort Augustus, on the
banks of Loch Ness,
encapsulates
Highland scenery and
history at its bestHighlands ditch the tartan kitschAngela Dewar
finds
a warm welcome
and a brand new
buzz as she heads
north for a complete
change of sceneIF YOU haven8217t been to the Highland
capital for a while, be prepared for a
pleasantsurprise.Out isthefusty,
twee tartan, image of Inverness and
inis anoptimistic,livelycity. Itmakesa
vibrant destinationfor aweekend
break. Therestaurants andnightlife
scenewould evengive Edinburghor
Glasgow a run for their money.
It8217s an incredibly friendly place, easy
to exploreand agreat startingpoint for
experiencing thesurrounding area,
fromdolphinwatching ontheMoray
Firth toadventure sports,such aswhite
waterrafting ontheRiver Findhorn.If
you enjoy your thrills at a more sedate
pace, there8217s always time for a gentle
spot of fly fishing on the River Ness.
Southeast ofInverness,a remotesite
offers a chance to connect with
Scotland8217s prehistoric roots. The Clava
Cairns sit in a field surrounded by stand-
ingstonesand gnarledoaktrees,where
archaeologists discoveredhuman
bones andtraces ofpyres inthe
4000-year-old burial tombs.
Thenvisit theinfamous battlefieldof
Culloden,where thevisitors8217 centrehas
hadamulti-million poundfacelift.The
high-techimmersion roombrings
history andthe battleitself tolife witha
unique film screened across four walls.
Outside, visitors can walk through
the heather fieldswhere Bonnie Prince
Charlie8217s army was defeated by Hanove-
rian troops. Anetwork of footpaths
givesa closelook atthe restoredbattle-
field, justas theopposing armiessaw it
all those years ago.
To explorethe greatoutdoors, head
for GlenAffric, whichhas oneof the
largest ancient Caledonian pinewoods
inScotland, aswellas beautifullochs,
brooding moorland andmighty peaks.
It8217salso ahaven forwildlife8211 fromdeer
and pinemartins toan abundanceof
birds.
It takes six days to walk the Great Glen
Way that cuts across the Highlands
fromFort Williamto Inverness.If
you don8217t have the time 8211 or the en-
ergy 8211 try a short section to see spec-
tacular scenery,ancient historical
sites, such as Fort Augustus Abbey,
and the wonderful Loch Ness.
Wildlife is in abundance in the
Highlands, but it8217s not all on land.
Take a trip outto sea from the
Black Isleand acrossthe Moray
Firth to spotbottlenose dol-
phins (right) swimming inthe surf. For
windswept beaches to wander, there are
miles ofwhite sand,high dunesand big
breakersonthe blusterybeachat
Lossiemouth. Further north,Brora sits
on the Sutherland coastline surrounded
by rolling hills and low cliffs. In summer,
holiday makers can splash around in the
breaking waves comingin from the
North Sea. During the rest of the year, it8217s
the perfectplace fora bracing
walk.Wrap up against the blustery wind,
walk the dog or go beachcombing on the
shingle near the harbour.
For many,the magic ofthe High-
lands isepitomised byits mys-
terious castles. History
buffs canfollow theCastle
Trail aroundthe north-east.
There are13 castleswithin an
hour8217s drive of Aberdeen, still
standing as unique landmarks of the
heritage of this corner of the Highlands.
From the16th-century CrathesCastle
near Banchory tothe magnificently
BaroqueDuff HouseatBanff, thefamily
homes of once-rich lairds make
fascinating viewing.
DunnottarCastle nearStonehavenis
percheddramaticallyon ahighcliff
overlooking the North Sea. The 9th-
century fortress heldoff Cromwell8217s
army to preservethe Scottish crown
jewels. Followa steep,twisting pathto
reach it and see for yourself why director
Franco Zeffirellichose itas thelocation
for the film
Hamlet
. Alternatively, sit
back and soak up the scenery of the 130-
mile coastal road, which winds its way
north from Aberdeen to Findhorn. With
spectacularviews, goodfood alongthe
way andcenturies ofhistory toexplore,
there isn8217t a dull moment.
When it comes to finding places to
stay, there8217s something for every wallet.
In Inverness, budget-conscious visitors
can rest their heads at the four-star
youth hostel (www.syha.org.uk) on
Victoria Drive, praised by many as the
best in the country, with en-suite rooms
and brand new facilities.
To splashout, book a nightat the
Rocpool (www.rocpool.com). Voted
Scottish BoutiqueHotel ofthe Year
2007,it isultrachic.Rooms havestylish
furniture, freestanding baths and
Molton Brown toiletries to indulge in.
Over on the west coast, the newly
refurbished The Torridon (www.the
torridon.com) isa real treat. Setin 58
acres of parkland on the shores of Upper
Loch Torridon at the foot of Ben Damph,
it8217s close to historic Eilean Donan Castle,
the Isle of Skye and the tranquil fishing
villages of Applecross and Plockton. The
19-bedroom Torridon Hotel,a former
shooting lodgebuilt forthe firstEarl of
Lovelace in1887, hasopen fireplaces
and a wood-panelled malt whisky bar
featuring 320 varieties.
Alternatively, there8217s more affordable
accommodation, along with good food,
at thecosy TorridonInn. TheTorridon
Boat House offers a more secluded stay,
and thefamily-run hotelhas afine
diningrestaurant, overseenbyaward-
winning chef Kevin John Broome. There
is alsoan activitiescentre whereguides
areonhandto takeyouwalking,climb-
ing or kayaking.
Whenit comesto eatingout there8217sa
wealth of options in the Highlands, all
offeringthefinest localproduce.In
Inverness, the busy Caf233 1 on Castle
Streetcomes highlyrecommendedby
locals. Crisp sea bass fillets are served
with sweet potatoes and parsnip puree,
and breastof chickenstuffed with
lemon andthyme mousseis oneof
several options to choose from.
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